Guillaume Motte

I am reminded of a famous French song many years ago called “Capri, c’est fini”. The FTC’s most recent bid is worth reading very carefully : https://lnkd.in/dGqjJUjx It may not only put an end to Tapestry’s proposed acquisition of Capri, but it also signals a renewed focus on antitrust enforcement in the already complex process of M&A deals. The FTC decision also fuels the eternal debate on the core value of a luxury brand: is luxury linked to rarity or to authenticity? Interestingly, the FTC’s bid is based on a narrow definition of a marketing subset of the luxury market, saying that Tapestry and Capri compete in the “accessible luxury” market space. An oxymoron for many etymologists, a reality for many consumers. #FTC #Tapestry #Capri #luxurybrands #antitrustenforcement #mergers #mergersandacquisition #consumers #luxury Jonathan Siboni #branding Jacques Roizen Framework illustration by Nagasawa Shinya & Jiang Zhiqing

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Chow Tai Fook (CTF) Group is one of largest jewelry retailers in China. It has over 7000 retailer stores. Its Shenzhen factory closed at the end of May. This is one of three #CTF factories on mainland China, as far as I know. There are various rumors about why CTF closed this factory. One of the reasons is the high operating costs at the Shenzhen factory. However, upon closer examination, the rising price of #gold appears to be the primary factor. 24K gold jewelry products are one of CTF’s main products. These items have been very popular over the past few years due to technological advancements in gold processing. They were among the most prominent products in the Chinese jewelry industry and retail business. However, this year’s increase in gold prices has negatively impacted consumer demand in China. By the end of April, there was a noticeable slowdown in the demand for gold jewelry. Jewelry retailers are now hesitant to restock these products. For 18K gold #jewelry, there is also a noticeable slowdown due to the high gold prices. #VCA has also announced price increases in China. Setting aside the overall Chinese economy, the high price of gold is currently the biggest risk factor for the jewelry business in China and globally.

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I am turning 37 this Saturday 🥳 and I'm excited to reflect a bit with you. From flying to COSMOPROF Hongkong for GLOSSYBOX with Audrey BARBIER-LITVAK Fanny Sandström and Ri-Jean Vardy (still one of the best work trips ever) to starting a family and launching a consultancy in Portugal, my journey has been filled with growth and evolution and fun. 🙏🌍 I've embraced new opportunities while staying true to my passion for marketing and business development. As I celebrate this milestone, I look back on the twists and turns that have shaped my professional journey. It's been a ride full of surprises, challenges, and moments of pure joy. Each experience has molded me into the professional I am today, and I eagerly anticipate what the future holds. Here's to embracing change, following new paths, and continuing to grow. Don't be afraid to take risks and remember, there's always a way back. But, cherish the present moment and prioritize your happiness. Life is too short to sacrifice joy for achievements. Recently, I came across a post from Kristin Buth on Instagram that resonated with me and I believe is worth sharing as I embrace aging 😝 She recommended a book highlighting the top 5 regrets of people on their deathbed: 1. "I wish I had the guts to live my own life" 2. "I wish I didn't work that much" 3. "I wish I had the guts to stand up for my own feelings" 4. "I wish I had kept contact with my old friends" 5. "I wish I had allowed myself to be happier" Anything you regret not doing? I love celebrating birthdays, so you will find me in Ganderkesee on a Camping trip with old friends and family and I couldn’t be more happy. Maybe worth jumping into the cold sea at night 😂 #CareerJourney #Reflectingonyourway #EmbracingChange #birthdaywisdom #personalgrowth #shareyourjourneytoinspireothers #itsyourlife #liveyourlife

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Is it time for Burberry to consider new management? Having just reported dismal FY24 results and remained vague about the FY25 LFL outlook, it must be time to consider a new management and creative team. Shareholders must be losing patience with Burberry, which has underperformed the luxury sector for almost 10 years.  Christopher Bailey was a brilliant creative director but did not have the right skills as CEO. Since then, first the Italian CEO/creative duo of Marco Gobbetti/Riccardo Tisci; and currently Jonathan Akeroyd/Daniel Lee have fared little better. But why? The luxury market is weaker than expected in 2024, but this alone is insufficient to explain the company’s current underperformance. Burberry’s strategy to elevate the brand; and shift towards leather goods has never made sense to me. This is a crowded, hyper-competitive space already and more importantly, it is not where Burberry’s DNA lies. Burberry’s DNA is about protecting people from the elements The brand has always been about protecting people from the elements. But in its eagerness to become a more exclusive leather goods brand, Burberry has let Moncler run away with the luxury outerwear space. Considering the interest in climate change, it seems like such a relevant category. Burberry’s positioning should be about accessible luxury No brand can take its pricing upwards easily, especially not in the current environment. It will be difficult for Burberry to move into higher-priced exclusive luxury, with the number of outlets Burberry has. It is no surprise that none of the successful luxury brands that operate in this higher-priced space – including Chanel, Dior, Hermes and Vuitton – have outlets. Being fashion-forward when quiet luxury in vogue is problematic Offering too high a fashion component at a time when quiet luxury is in vogue is also a difficult strategy. In my mind, Burberry should be a modern classic but not high-fashion. Burberry doesn’t feel like Burberry any more If you walk into the Bond Street Burberry store today, the white box feels anonymous; this store could arguably belong to a whole host of premium brands. I also think it’s a pity that successive management teams have been allowed to tamper with the typeface/font. The new font is not even consistently applied across the world. (For example, the Vienna flagship still uses the old one). As for heavy use of the colour blue, I associate Burberry with tan, black and dark red of the check. I’d love to know what you think. #luxury #management #turnaround Smith Square Partners https://lnkd.in/ebH9PX3W

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Market2024: NO.31 Poll Summary: Fashion's Impact on Eyewear Choice Poll Results: A Great Deal: 18 votes (🌟) Moderately: 11 votes (👍) Slightly: 6 votes (👌) Not at All: 7 votes (🙅‍♂️) Quick Take: Fashion plays a big role for many when picking eyewear, with 29 folks valuing style from a bit to a lot! 👓🎨 Advice: Shoppers: Mix it up! Choose frames that match both your style and comfort. 🎭👓 Retailers: Stock a variety of styles to cater to all fashion tastes. 🏬👀 Let's keep rocking those stylish frames! 🚀👓 #Eyewear #Fashion #StyleChoices #Market2024 #marketresearch

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The old hierarchical paradigm of organizations has reached its expiry date. But what to replace it with? These are the three breakthroughs for reinventing your organization. In his book Reinventing Organizations, Frederic Laloux lays out a refreshing and important perspective of the organization of the future. Core to this perspective are what he calls three breakthroughs: Self Management, Wholeness, and Evolutionary Purpose. This is what they mean: SELF-MANAGEMENT Organized based on autonomy and peer relationships instead of top-down hierarchy, making everyone in the organization powerful. • Decentralized and shared responsibility within a unit • No boss to report to, but leader that is coach and facilitator • Limited staff functions, mostly done by people themselves • Horizontal, peer to peer communication and alignment • Attention to local context, differences and needs • Advice process: anyone can decide, but after asking advice • Trust instead of control, treating people as responsible adults WHOLENESS Organized based on treating people as a whole, including their non-professional, emotional, intuitive, spiritual and aspirational parts. • Don’t reduce people to “walking hands” or “talking heads” • Make use of people’s full potential • Combine rationality with intuition and emotion • Embrace individuality, differences, and aspirations • Develop real, rich relationships  • Create a safe and open working environment • Make work more like home EVOLUTIONARY PURPOSE Organized based on the idea of an organization as a living organism with a direction of its own, instead of following dictated and predefined goals based on prediction and control. • Treat organizations as living systems, not as machines • No predefined goals, direction emerges • Replace predict and control by sense and response • Get out the way and let the organization unfold • Listen and pay attention  • Let people discover the organization’s purpose together • Focus on identity instead of targets In each of these three breakthroughs, the devil is in the details and in applying them throughout your organization. Self-management isn’t simply delegation or laissez-faire leadership.   Wholeness isn’t simply creating a gym or having plants at the office. Evolutionary purpose isn’t simply having a mission, vision or purpose. No, fully embracing these three breakthroughs implies a fundamental shift in how we lead, manage and organize the organizations we work for.

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#luxury and #fashion Q1 financial results Winners and losers. Risks and opportunities. What is next? LVMH +3% vs same 2023 Kering -10% vs same 2023 and profit warning (est.-40-45% 1st half) Hermès +17% vs same 2023 Moncler +16% vs same 2023 Prada Group + 18% vs same 2023 Ermenegildo Zegna Group +8% vs same 2023 FERRAGAMO to be published May 9th. CEO confirmed until 2026. Burberry Q3 24 announced in January -7% and profit warning for FY 23-24 This is not the moment to have "faith" and "hope". This is a time for a reality check and deep, independent analysis. It is time to implement proper and accurate Brand Management. My SUN DeLuxe newsletter will be posted tomorrow and it will be focused on an independent, objective analysis of the hot topic of the moment, anticipated above. It will be available only for my community of subscribers. Free subscribers will get open articles every now and then, not brand analysis nor financial analysis which will be exclusive for the paid subscribers. You are welcome in the DeLuxers community, you can subscribe anytime at the link in comments. You will also enjoy a bi-monthly live webinar with Q&A! See you tomorrow!

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Luxury is our continent’s greatest asset: LVMH accounted for 4% of all French exports last year. Here in the U.K., whilst we don’t have a conglomerate like LVMH, our luxury sector collectively is a major contributor to U.K. export strength. As Walpole ‘s landmark study, Luxury in the Making published last month, found, if we exclude components that are primarily services, high-end exports were around 12% of the UK's merchandise exports, which is an increase over the share reported for 2017 of 9%. If we include services elements, we find the high-end sectors account for around 7% of total UK trade. Shouldn’t policymakers in the U.K. be doing all they can to unlock the firepower of what is clearly a great national asset, removing drags on growth like the ban on Tax Free Shopping in this country, and committing wholeheartedly to making sure the U.K. luxury sector can compete on a level playing field with its nearest continental neighbour, France?

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There is only one boss: The Customer. And he can fire everybody in the company from the chairman on down, simply by spending his money somewhere else. These words from Walmart founder Sam Walton are true in all of retail, but they ring particularly true in travel retail. We have a limited time to impress shoppers - and we must use it well and get it right. Our shoppers walk into our stores out of choice, but they do not have to be there. Airports have footfall - travel retail stores must earn it. A consumer will return to an airport, but shops must earn repeat custom by getting everything right in a small window of time. It is high pressure, and requires bespoke training and support to get it right. In this week's blog I am looking at hos travel retail can make sure our customers choose to return - and the lies we need to stop telling ourselves! Read it here: https://lnkd.in/e6pDR8MQ #experience #customer #travelretail

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BREAKING NEWS: METAJIVE AND PXLP JOIN TOGETHER GROUP I am excited to announce the acquisition of Metajive (metajive.com), a San Diego based agency specialized in digital transformation, websites, e-commerce, apps and digital- product design, and its subsidiary Pixel Perfect Development (PXLP) (www.pxlp.dev), a high-end development studio. Since its inception in 2004, Metajive has created over 400 projects for Fortune 100 companies and aspirational challenger brands. The team has designed digital solutions for luxury and lifestyle agencies and brands, including Nike, Porsche and the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). They have also developed innovative solutions and products for enterprise clients in the technology and financial services sector, trusted by clients such as Google, HP and T- Mobile. Metajive has received numerous industry awards, most recently three Webby Awards for their AI-powered digital creativity testFX, in collaboration with Google Creative Lab. Metajive has also been acknowledged on the INC 5000 list three times(!) and ranked in 2024 by the Financial Times as one of America’s fastest-growing companies. Digital transformation, apps and experiences are essential for luxury and lifestyle brands that have the ambition to deliver bespoke services to both discerning and aspirational consumers, and Metajive and PXLP further strengthen our Group’s digital capabilities. Their teams deliver meticulously-creafted solutions, envisioning and building the right experiences that truly make a difference for our clients and their audiences. “This is the next step in our teams’ journey of growth. We are excited about the collaboration opportunities with both brands, destinations and our fellow Group Agencies” says Dave Benton, founder and CEO of Metajive. “While luxury and lifestyle brands have certainly caught up in the digital world, we still see substantial room for improving consumer experiences, and for designing high-quality products that connect, engage and build brand loyalty.” “Whether launching a new product, a campaign or an entirely new business and brand, we have the creative and technological capabilities to envision and deliver the digital solutions for it” adds April Benton, COO of Metajive & Pixel Perfect. “We are thrilled to combine our technological expertise with the best branding and activation agencies in the luxury world.” This announcement follows the recent acquisition of Frame Publicity, a luxury communications agency based in the Middle East. The Group has plans for further acquisitions across all its pillars, including strategy and branding, digital, marketing, content creation and data services, strengthening its positioning as the leading full-service network for the luxury and lifestyle sectors. A warm welcome to Dave, April and the Metajive and PXLP teams! #agency #luxury #lifestyle #digital #transformation #experiences #design #technology #apps #websites #ecommerce #digitalsolutions

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The art and science of integrating AI into the company is akin to the structure of "atomi," which begins with "A" and ends with "I." AI constitutes both the starting point and the ultimate objective. https://lnkd.in/giQfKnAQ We do not see AI as the ultimate solution, but rather as a tool to assist in my work. AI is a valuable tool for generating more solutions and innovative ideas in my research and execution. However, the core of ideation still resides in the mindset and creativity of the team. #andrewtanatomisingapore #theatomiway

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🎸 Fascinated by the Numbers: Saks and Neiman's Impact See the related article! 🆒 Saks and Neiman Marcus Group will generate annual sales of $10 billion—more than double what FARFETCH, the largest #luxury #ecommerce #platform, reported. 🆒 Macy's, which reported $23 billion in revenue last year, and Nordstrom, with $14 billion in net sales in 2023. 🆒These numbers not only showcase the financial prowess of these retail giants but also emphasize their pivotal role in shaping #thefutureofretail. Traditional #departmentstores face challenges in the #digitalage, yet these figures demonstrate their enduring relevance and potential for innovation. REINVENTING RETAIL: EMBRACING CHANGE IN WHAT I CALLED "THE ERA OF SAKS GLOBAL" Highlight a pivotal moment for the industry. As Julie Gilhart remarks in The Business of Fashion article, esteemed fashion consultant and former Barneys New York #fashiondirector, aptly puts it, "WE’RE AT A TIME WHEN EVERYTHING NEEDS A REINVENTION." This underscores a critical need for innovation and transformation within traditional retail models. THE CHALLENGE OF TRADITIONAL DEPARTMENT STORES GILHART'S statement resonates particularly considering ongoing critiques regarding the physical shopping experience department stores offer. Despite emphasising the advantages of a real-world presence, many stores struggle with outdated practices. EMBRACING INNOVATION: LESSONS FROM RETAIL TRAILBLAZERS However, notable pioneers are reshaping the retail narrative: ✅ Nordstrom AND PERSONALIZATION: Nordstrom has revolutionized customer service with personalized styling services and convenient pick-up options through their "Nordstrom Local" concept stores. By prioritizing customer experience over transactional efficiency, they set a precedent for enhancing in-store engagement. ✅ Selfridges AND IMMERSIVE EXPERIENCES: Selfridges in London has redefined retail through immersive exhibitions, sustainable initiatives, and community-focused events. By transforming their stores into cultural hubs, they attract consumers seeking unique and meaningful shopping experiences. André Maeder, for me Selfridges plays as #number1 rank. ✅Looking Ahead: The Potential of Saks Global + An opportunity to reimagine the role of department stores in the digital age. + Consolidating resources and focusing on efficiency, + To create a more streamlined and customer-centric retail experience. CONCLUSION As retailers navigate the complexities of modern consumerism, the call for reinvention resonates louder than ever. The future of retail lies in the ability to adapt, innovate, and exceed customer expectations in ways that go beyond the transactional. (😎 Lo de siempre!) 🎸 How can they evolve to meet the changing demands of modern consumers? Help me with your thoughts and propel the conversation of the future of retail together. #propellingbrands to #newHeightsofSuccess

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Get up to speed with key takeaways from Hogan Lovells' ESG webinar! Here are some notable 'sound bites' for those who couldn't join live.

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What trends are evident in these pictures? ⚽ David Beckham x Hugo Boss 🎸 Pharrell William x Louis Vuitton 🎾 Roger Federer and Rafael Nadal x Louis Vuitton 🏆 Cristiano Ronaldo and Lionel Messi x Louis Vuitton 🏠 Loro Piana Interior “A Tribute to legendary Milanese architect and designer Cini Boeri”  🎭 ⚽ Collaborations between artists and fashion brands are not new, as art and fashion have long been intertwined. But we see the strategic approach of luxury brands has expanded to a whole new level, encompassing sports, music, hotels, books, furniture ..., or more broadly, cultural pivots that are reshaping the luxury industry. These partnerships can range from advertising campaigns to social media sensations to strategic involvement in the design process. 🎼 This new direction spans a variety of aspects of life that capture people's interest. It leverages world-famous personalities' unique aesthetics and fan bases to attract consumers and build emotional connections with them – perhaps even investing in the products. 🎤 Brands are creating deeper links between culture, entertainment, and brand identity. This shift may be crucial for transforming into megabrands. However, how can we balance accessibility vs exclusivity? Desirability vs visibility? This is the ultimate challenge. What's your take on this? Share your thoughts in the comment. #luxury #culture #collaborations #luxurymarketing #brandstrategy #brandmanagement #hugoboss #louisvuitton

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The brand houses of VF, PVH, Deckers, Pentland, Kontoor, Amer, Wolverine and Boardriders featured in these insights own, or manage, a who’s who of global fashion and sports brands. Several weeks back I posted about the major sports brands and how their most popular sources of talent are each other (see link in comments). The brand houses are quite different: they barely recruit from each other. They do recruit from the major sports brands: Nike, adidas and lululemon are predictably the most popular. Despite the challenging trading conditions all these businesses have increased their total number of employees over the last year except for Boardriders (-3%) and Wolverine who were pretty close to flat. The rate of attrition varies from Kontoor at just 8% (great in any market conditions) to 17% for PVH. With the number of lay-off activities over the last year it’s not possible to draw any conclusions from this statistic about the impact of culture and leadership on employee retention. There is one notable absence from this list - Authentic Brands. After looking at the data for AB we concluded that recent acquisitions skewed the available data. Linkedin currently only makes it possible to link some of AB’s brands to the parent company and misses others that should be included for any insights on them to be meaningful. The data used for this analysis does not include part time employees but does full time store level employees. These will impact the data differently depending on the different proportions of direct operated retail (VF and PVH have much larger retail estates than Boardriders for example). See the bottom of the post for some key points on how this data was put together. Total Employee Trend FY23: 📶 VF +3%  📶 PVH +2% 📶 Deckers +15%  📶 Kontoor +5%  📶 Pentland Brands +1%  📶 Amer Sports +10% 📶 Boardriders -3% 📶 Wolverine +0.4% Attrition insights FY23: 🏃🏻‍♂️‍➡️ VF 13%  🏃🏻‍♂️‍➡️ PVH 17% 🏃🏻‍♂️‍➡️Deckers 9% 🏃🏻‍♂️‍➡️Kontoor 8% 🏃🏻‍♂️‍➡️Pentland Brands 13%  🏃🏻‍♂️‍➡️Amer Sports 10.5% 🏃🏻‍♂️‍➡️Boardriders 14% 🏃🏻‍♂️‍➡️Wolverine 14.5% (proportion of employees who left in last 12 months) Head to Head insights 🥊 PVH v Abercrombie +10 (for every one employee goes from PVH to Abercrombie, 19 go from Abercrombie to PVH)  🥊 PVH v Hunkemöller + 8  🥊 Deckers v Nike +14 🥊 Kontoor v Hanes Brands +6 * Source: Linkedin Talent Insights Note: this only tracks movements recorded on Linkedin, and only people who use the correct company for the role (sometimes folk add employer ‘entities’ that don't exist or aren't associated) Note: this is Global data Note: we only included full-time employees so it was not skewed by part-time retail employees Note: Where there were related businesses we included them i.e PVH and Calvin Klein / Tommy Hilfiger 

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Engagement with lab-grown diamonds is a topic close to my heart lately! It's essential to acknowledge that consumer preferences drive the market, not the other way around, regardless of brands' resistance. Gen Z and young consumers are leading the charge towards sustainability and ethical practices. Personally, I cherish and proudly wear both natural and lab-grown diamonds. At the end of the day, they're both real diamonds, so let's embrace them wholeheartedly instead of engaging in unnecessary debate. 💎 #Sustainability #EthicalFashion #Diamonds #LabgrownDiamonds

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Luxury brands design products reflecting the highest levels of human creative achievement. The brands prosper in the marketplace on authenticity and person-to-person connections that build trust. Rather than enhancing those qualities, the irresponsible use of GenAI can threaten them. #luxurybrandstrategist #luxury #luxurybrandmanagement #artificialintelligence #genai #innovation #heritage #metaverse #forbes #lvmh

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🌍 Vestiaire Collective has spoken, and the truth about fast fashion's affordability might surprise you. 💡 According to their latest Circular Economy Report 2024, co-authored with carbon tracking software Vaayu, the myth of fast fashion's cost-effectiveness has been debunked. 📉 Their research, based on a survey of 13,400 consumers across five major markets, reveals a stark reality: high-quality second-hand fashion boasts a 33% lower cost-per-wear compared to its fast fashion counterparts. 🛍️ By employing a unique 'cost-per-wear' formula, Vestiaire Collective has shed light on the true value of clothing. 🧥 This approach factors in resale values and wear frequencies, providing insights into the long-term sustainability and economic benefits of investing in quality pieces. 💼 As we navigate the fashion landscape, let's heed the call to rethink our consumption habits and prioritize durability over disposability. 💬 Let's strive for a world where sustainability and style go hand in hand. 🌿 #CircularEconomy #SustainableFashion #FashionRevolution

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Retail trade inches up 0.6% in $ terms in May: Unfortunately, they are still on track to be flat/fall in real terms in June quarter. Bottom line is still weak with nominal retail trade lower in May 2024 than in Nov 2023 which is consistent with miserable sentiment. Building approvals up from decade lows - just. We need much more growth to see the housing construction sector contribute to growth - not there yet. My Two Minute Take #retail #Buildingapprovals #RBA #twominutetake

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